Dog Proofing Raccoon Sets

The modern and responsible trapper must know where, when and how to set a trap in close proximity to areas which may cause conflict with pets and people. As a trapper you should be familiar with the furharvesting regulations which deal with legal trap types, special trap setting requirements, tending requirements, and the legal distances for setting traps from dwellings and public buildings, etc. (Please consult the Hunting and Furharvesting License and Summary of Regulations booklet, or contact an office of Department of Natural Resources for details). Regulations may also be accessed via the internet or the Department of Natural Resources website. (www.gov.ns.ca/natr/wildlife).

Understanding and following these regulations will help to ensure that your trapping activity is effective and humane which will minimize the potential of conflict with landowners/occupiers and other users of wildlife habitat. Those species which occur frequently in close association with human development and activities, presents additional challenges to the modern trapper. An otherwise perfectly legal, humane, effective and appropriate set, when employed in these situations, may result in a conflict with local residents/landowners, which could be damaging to the reputation of yourself and trappers in general. It is important when operating in these situations that the furharvester always maintain an awareness of potential conflicts, and set his/her traps accordingly. In Nova Scotia the species that cause more conflict than almost any other is the raccoon, mainly due to their nature and occurrence in close proximity to humans.

This is not a new problem. Some 20 years ago Natural Resources published a pamphlet for trappers to help illustrate the use of alternative trap sets specifically for catching raccoons. At that time, an increasing number of dogs were being caught and killed in conibear style traps, in particular with the larger 220 and 330 size. Because of this problem, the setting of the larger body gripping traps, (ie. 220, 330 conibear type traps) was regulated in land setting situations, and could only be set with specific limitations. These different avenues were made available for this size of trap. a.) In a dog proof box, with an opening at the top which can not be a) more than 5" above the ground, b) 5 feet off the ground, or c) in or over water. Since inception the regulations remain in effect with little if any problems. When applied properly, these techniques are very effective at keeping dogs out.

With these regulations in place' trappers shifted their focus to the smaller 160 body gripping trap, which could be set on the ground, without restrictions. This trap, used in baited cubby sets, turned out to be very popular as well as very efficient at catching raccoons. Unfortunately during the last couple of years, there have been reported incidences of dogs getting caught in these smaller 160 body gripping traps. As an alternative to further restrictions on the 160, which would be similar to the restrictions on the larger body gripping traps, N.S.D.N.R. in cooperation with T.A.N.S. has agreed to try a pro-active approach, by re-educating trappers on current methods of dog proofing raccoon sets, regardless of the size of the trap. Recent changes to the definition of dog proofing were implemented during the 1999 - 2000 trapping season to allow the 220 size body gripping trap to be set on the ground, in a wider variety of dog proof enclosures. The conditions which allow for the setting of these traps are illustrated in Fig. 1.

Dog proof enclosure means a special trap holding enclosure, designed to keep a dog away from a trap by creating a barrier to the trap, allowing entry only through designated openings and:

a) for unbaited or unscented trap sets, an enclosure that provides openings no greater than 25.4 cm (10") height and 25.4 cm (10") width with the trap trigger set back at least 38.1 cm (15") from any enclosure opening.

b) for baited/scented trap sets, an enclosure that provides openings no greater than 322.6 cm2 (50 in2) with the trap trigger set back at least 17.78 cm (7") from any enclosure opening or an enclosure with openings no greater than a 20.32 cm (8") height by 25.4 cm (10") width, and the trap trigger set back at least 25.4 cm (10") from any enclosure openings.

These changes exclude dogs from the trap by crating a physical barrier to the trap. It is important to note that even though the enclosures in the above diagrams are made of wire and plastic, the dog proof enclosure can be made of anything including such things as stone, brush, wood or steel. It can be totally collapsible, as long as the structure creates a barrier to the trap within the specifications given.

The diagrams above are meant as examples only, and can be improved upon by using brush, moss, stone or other materials to cover and blend them according to your surrounding areas. The purpose of these illustrations is to show examples of the set back of the trigger position and the size of the openings that are required in order to legally set the trap and ultimately exclude dogs. The dimension of these set backs are a result of research carried out in Wisconsin, USA and are proven to work both at catching raccoons and excluding dogs. As mentioned earlier, even these legal sets will not keep out all accidental catches 100% of the time. Using alternative baits and a little common sense will always be important when setting traps, regardless of the kind of trap or the set location.

Bait selection, with or without lure, is a very important part of any trap set. Some baits will be attractive to raccoons as well as other non-target animals including dogs. Baits such as red meat, poultry and fish, should be avoided in areas that you suspect dogs to frequent. Alternative baits such as peanut butter, beaver castor, marshmallows, honey, and fruit to name a few, should be considered. Selection of specialized lures may also reduce problems with non-target catches. However, careful consideration should be given to lure selection as some lures may be more attractive to dogs, especially hounds, than the actual bait itself.

A point to consider when making cubbies for the smaller body gripping traps, is the cut-out, which allows the spring of the trap to expand when fired. If the cut-out is too shallow then the trap will be forced forward and out of the cubby. This additional thrust can be enough to throw the trap out of the cubby and over a dog's head. By making the slots in the sides of the cubby longer, and keeping the trap away from the back of the cut-out, there will be little or no forward momentum when the trap is fired. By using the minimum set-backs for trigger placements, on all body gripping traps, and enlarging the cut-outs for the springs, traps will stay within the cubby when fired. This will reduce the chance of catching dogs. Another suggestion is to use a piece of small wire to bridge between the two wires of the trigger, of the body gripping trap. This increases the surface area of the trigger, which should prevent dogs from putting their head too far into a trap before setting it off. The result of this is to reduce the likelihood of a "killing strike" in a dog size animal.

These are only a few suggestions which will help keep unwanted animals out of your traps. The point is to remember to consider the location, the potential risk of the bait and lure you are going to use, and then set the trap accordingly. Failure by furharvesters to consider using "common sense" and take the appropriate precautions, will likely result in escalating conflicts. Over time this could also bring more regulatory restrictions. Very few trappers think of the trappers who came before them, however every trapper should consider the trappers who will follow. The future of trapping rests in the hands of todays' trappers.